Controlling Cucumber Beetles

It may seem early, but this month is a good time to start thinking about garden pests, specifically the cucumber beetle. I had never heard of a cucumber beetle before moving to Northern California. When I first saw them in the garden, I thought they were cute little bugs, similar to ladybugs. In fact, they are the opposite. Ladybugs eat aphids; cucumber beetles nibble petals and leaves, leaving tiny holes in nearly everything.

Because they are strictly plant feeders, cucumber beetles are capable of causing widespread damage in a short amount of time. Leaves often develop a skeletonized appearance, with most of the soft tissue eaten away, leaving only the veins. I do not know of many other common garden pests here that leave plants looking quite like that.
Part of what makes cucumber beetles so frustrating is how well they suit our climate. Our mild weather lines up perfectly with their life cycle and feeding habits. They never experience a population reset because we do not have extended periods of frost, which is why their numbers compound year after year. Organic sprays often fail against cucumber beetles for several reasons. Many organic products work by direct contact or ingestion, but cucumber beetles have a hard outer shell that limits absorption. They also tend to drop off or fly away when disturbed, reducing contact time with sprays.

I eventually found a sticky lure trap specifically made for cucumber beetles. Over the years, these traps have become increasingly difficult to find, and the price is steep, about twenty dollars for two lures. I need at least four lures in my garden, and replacing them every two weeks quickly becomes cost-prohibitive. I scoured the internet for alternatives, and after testing this method last season, I can confidently stand by its effectiveness.

Items for Lures

Making the Traps:

1.     Choose a yellow plastic cup. The brighter, the better. Cucumber beetles are strongly attracted to yellow, which is why commercial traps use bright plastic housings to attract them.

2.     Coat the outside of the cup with Tanglefoot. This sticky horticultural glue is traditionally used to keep crawling pests off fruit trees, and Harmony Farm Supply usually keeps it stocked. Apply a thick, even layer around the outside of the cup, stopping about a half inch from the top so you can still handle it. Alternatively, coat the cup once it is already in place in the garden.

3.     Place a cotton ball soaked in clove essential oil inside the cup.  Cucumber beetles find the scent irresistible. The oil lures them close enough to investigate the trap, where they get stuck. I also put another layer of Tanglefoot inside the cup, almost up to the cottonball.  This provided one more area to trap them.

Fresh Lure

4.     Attach the cup to a stake, tomato cage, or nearby structure. I have had great success punching a hole in the rim of the cup and tying it onto trellis panels, but a simple stake works just as well.

5.     Check and refresh as needed. When the cup becomes covered in beetles, replace it.

The earlier I place the lures, the faster I can get ahead of the population. This method occasionally harms beneficial insects, but it is rare, usually one or two bees per lure. This low impact is one reason this has been a successful strategy for controlling cucumber beetles.

Happy Gardening!

January 2026- Soil Health

January is the month of resolutions and promised changes, yet we all know transformation doesn’t happen overnight. Gardeners have long used the garden as a metaphor for life, and I see it clearly in the way meaningful work happens out of sight. Real progress begins slowly, beneath the surface, long before we notice any results.

In our own lives, we shift patterns and adjust over time. We don’t decide to change on January 1st and wake up a different person on January 2nd. Soil works the same way. Improvement is gradual, biological, and cumulative. The advantage is that in winter, we have time to start building the layers our soil needs. And just like in our own routines, the results will show up later, long after the “groundwork” is done.

A few years ago, I read Soil Science for Gardeners by Robert Pavlis. I’ve mentioned the book before because it truly changed the way I view my garden. I’ve always leaned toward minimal disturbance and the layering, or “lasagna,” method in my raised beds, but reading the science behind soil biology gave me a deeper understanding of why those instincts were working.

Did you know that one teaspoon of healthy soil contains more living organisms than there are people on Earth? I find that fact hard to wrap my mind around. Basically, when we dig deeply or till aggressively, we aren’t “fluffing soil”. We’re destroying a functioning ecosystem. In one or two beds, I’ve dug deeply when I had no choice, because there were problem pockets I needed to diagnose. But in the beds I’ve left undisturbed for years, the plants are strong, resilient, and far more productive.  

Gardeners sometimes assume they can dig up the soil, toss in compost, “mix it in,” and expect an immediate transformation, like baking a cake. But soil doesn’t respond to mixing. It responds to time, biology, and consistent inputs. Beautiful soil isn’t built in a season, but through a sequence of layers, living roots, decaying roots, and microbial activity. Nature is extremely good at breaking down organic material, and our job is to stop interrupting her.

What does work is feeding the soil from the top down, as a forest floor naturally does. By adding layers of organic materials, you let biology incorporate them without mechanical disruption. Over time, this produces soil that is richer, more structured, and full of life.

Each autumn, when I pull out summer crops, I examine the roots:
Were they long? Fine or thick? Did they spread widely or stay constrained?
Year after year, the healthiest, most productive plants always come from the beds I haven’t disturbed.

If you want to start layering this winter, the rainy season provides the perfect opportunity. I never leave the soil bare, especially this time of year. Over time, I’ve watched how mulch, specifically aged wood chips, protects soil structure during our wet months. Without that protective layer, rain compacts the surface like a hammer. The years I intentionally left a bed bare “just to observe,” the soil level dropped by nearly two inches. That’s two inches of organic matter lost to oxidation and runoff. When you layer materials now, such as wood chips, shredded leaves, finished compost, or any combination of organic matter, you’re letting the rain help settle those layers gently while preserving pore space and improving infiltration.

As we head into another gardening year, keep in mind that the real work happens well before anything shows above the surface. A little attention now will set your soil and your garden on the right trajectory for spring.

Happy gardening!

December 2025- Using Rosemary

I always welcome December’s slower pace and the rare chance to pause from garden chores. When the sun breaks through, I like to wander outside and harvest a few greens and hardy herbs; my favorite being rosemary.

If you grow rosemary in our climate, you’ve probably noticed it can be a bit on the invasive side. I keep mine in a raised bed and manage its spread by constantly cutting it back. Luckily, it’s a scent I adore, so I find plenty of uses for the trimmings, from soft padding in the chickens’ nesting boxes to fragrant additions in salad dressings.

Rosemary’s fresh, woodsy aroma makes it an especially fitting companion for the holidays and winter, so I thought I’d share a few of my favorite ways to use it.

Simmer Pot

If you’ve never tried one before, a simmer pot is an easy way to fill your home with the scent of the holidays; no need to keep buying candles. 

To make one, add a few sprigs of rosemary, a slice or two of orange, and a cinnamon stick or some cloves to a small pot of water. Let it simmer gently on the stove, adding more water as needed. The aroma is clean and comforting, with bright citrus and earthy evergreen notes that fill the house with warmth. If you enjoy decorating for the holidays, your simmer pot can be both attractive and fragrant. Pinecones, sliced citrus, apples, or cranberries add color and texture, creating a cozy, festive atmosphere for a gathering.

Rosemary Shortbread

Rosemary brings a subtle, aromatic quality to this simple shortbread. It’s buttery and crisp, and the herbal note keeps it from being overly sweet. Serve it alongside coffee or package a few squares with a fresh sprig for a thoughtful, handmade gift.

Ingredients

• 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

• ½ cup sugar

• 2 cups all-purpose flour

• 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary

• ¼ teaspoon salt

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 325°F.

2. Cream butter and sugar together until smooth.

3. Add flour, rosemary, and salt, mixing until a soft dough forms.

4. Press into an 8x8-inch pan and bake for 30–35 minutes, until lightly golden.

5. Cool slightly and cut into squares while still warm.

Infused Olive Oil

This is a simple way to preserve rosemary’s fresh flavor for the months ahead. Warm 1 cup of good-quality olive oil with 2 or 3 sprigs of rosemary over very low heat for about 5 minutes—just until fragrant. Let it cool, strain, and store in a sealed glass bottle. It’s excellent drizzled over roasted vegetables and salads.

December may be a slower month in the garden, but a pot of rosemary simmering on the stove or baked into a batch of shortbread keeps the season alive and fragrant. Wishing you a relaxing winter and a fresh start to the year ahead. Happy gardening!

November 2025- Sweet Peas

Glenys Johnson’s Sweet Pea Farm

If you've been following along for a while, you know I love tucking flowers into my vegetable garden. After months of rain, nothing excites me more than that first pop of color in early spring. Flowers not only bring vibrancy, but they also attract pollinators that help our fruits and veggies thrive. Best of all, the more you cut, the more they bloom, providing plenty of bouquets to brighten your living space.

Since I'm talking about planting in my veggie garden, I like to choose flowers that are both easy to grow and reseed themselves. That way, they return year after year with minimal effort. Some of my go-to choices are bachelor's buttons, nigella (also known as love-in-a-mist), calendula, nasturtium, and poppies. But one of my personal favorites (maybe because it's my birth flower) is the sweet pea. With their lovely fragrance and long-lasting blooms, they instantly elevate any arrangement.

While many gardeners wait until spring to sow seeds, those who plant in fall are rewarded with more vigorous vines, earlier blooms, and an abundance of flowers. Sweet peas require approximately six weeks of cool weather to establish a robust root system. By the time spring arrives, they're ready to surge upward, climbing six to nine feet and producing armfuls of fragrant blossoms.

One reason fall planting works so well is that sweet peas mimic nature. Seeds that drop at the end of the season don't sprout right away. Instead, they rest quietly in the soil, wait for the cool weather, and then return the following spring bigger, fuller, and farther along than anything planted later.

This month, I'd like to spotlight an excellent local source for sweet peas: Enchanting Sweet Peas. Owner Glenys Johnson has been devoted to these flowers for 28 years and specializes in English Spencer sweet peas, whose extra-large, frilly blossoms have a perfume that can stop you in your tracks.

Nimbus Sweet Pea

Her company offers more than 25 varieties, harvested and packaged right here in West Sonoma County. If you've been planting the same colors year after year, you'll be amazed at the range available. Among them are Glow, a tangerine-rose and cherry bicolor; Millennium, a rich ruby red; Jilly, with soft cream blossoms; and Blue Shift, which magically changes color after cutting—from violet to mauve to sky blue. My personal favorite, though, is Nimbus—inky dark violet with black streaks on silver-gray petals. They make a stunning stand-alone bouquet.

Planting is easy. Select a sunny spot with rich, composted soil, provide sturdy support, and water regularly. Sweet peas are frost-tolerant, so you don't need to worry about cold nights. Seeds sown in fall will sprout when the time is right, and by spring, they'll be well ahead of anything planted later, or even nursery starts.

Sweet Peas (by Glenys Johnson)

I like to sow sweet peas along the outside of my vegetable garden fence. The vines add a colorful, fragrant border, the blooms are easy to snip for bouquets, and the flowers draw in bumblebees that help pollinate the garden. And here's the key to keeping them productive: cut often. The more blooms you harvest, and the more you prevent seedpods from forming, the longer the plants will flower.

Freshly harvested seeds are available this fall at enchantingsweetpeas.com, where Glenys also shares growing supplies and advice. Supporting her business means not only filling your garden with beauty and fragrance but also celebrating a local grower who has kept the tradition alive in our community for nearly three decades.

Happy Gardening!

October 2025

As autumn settles in and thoughts turn to preparing the winter garden, don't forget to reserve a little space for garlic. It's a low-maintenance crop with a high reward in flavor. The ideal planting window falls between mid-October and November, allowing garlic to undergo the necessary cold period for proper bulb development, also known as vernalization. In West County, we have relatively mild winters, so to provide extra chilling time, make sure to place the bulbs in the fridge a couple of weeks before planting outdoors. 

When shopping for garlic varieties, you will notice there are twomain types: hardneck and softneck. Hardneck garlic forms a firm central stalk called a scape, which grows straight from the center of the bulb and is surrounded by 4 to 10 large cloves. It's ideal for colder climates and often delivers more bold, complex flavors. Because of that central stalk, however, hardneck garlic is more prone to moisture seepage and generally stores for just 3 to 6 months.

One of the great perks of growing hardneck garlic is the edible scape; a curly green flower stalk that emerges in late spring. Cutting it off early encourages the plant to focus its energy on developing a larger bulb, and as a bonus, the scape is edible. In early spring, before basil season, garlic scape pesto is a bright, flavorful way to satisfy the need for something homegrown.  Scapes have a mild, garlicky flavor and can also be chopped like green onions and tossed into stir-fries, eggs, pastas, or anything that needs a savory kick. 

Softneck garlic is the type you see most often in the grocery stores, with 12-20 smaller cloves tightly packed together. This type stores well because each bulb is tightly packed together with 12-20 cloves. With more papery layers than hardneck, it keeps out moisture and can last anywhere from 6 to 10 months if kept in a cool, dark place.

Tips for growing well-formed garlic bulbs:

1. Break apart the bulb right before planting and choose the biggest, healthiest cloves (leave the papery skins on).

2. Plant cloves pointed side up about 2 inches deep and 4–6 inches apart in loose, well-drained soil. Garlic doesn't like to be soggy!

3. Mulch with straw or shredded leaves to protect the cloves and suppress weeds.

Garlic is low maintenance, but during our heavy rainfall, it sometimes suffers from rust, a fungal disease that shows up as orange spots on the leaves. A preventative organic spray before heavy rainfall with copper, sulfur, or biological fungicides can protect your crop before the spores take hold. 

Some of my favorite varieties:

• Chesnok Red (hardneck): Sweet and full-bodied, great for roasting.

• Music (hardneck): Big cloves, intense flavor, reliable grower.

• Inchelium Red (softneck): Mild, lingering flavor, great for braiding and storing.

• California Early (softneck): Classic garlic taste, often used in commercial crops

If you've only used grocery store garlic, you're in for a surprise. Homegrown garlic is more pungent, more nuanced, and a little goes a long way. One clove can often replace two or three store-bought ones in recipes. Once you taste the difference, there's no going back, so get your garlic growing.

Happy Gardening!

September 2025

The autumnal equinox doesn’t seem to garner the spotlight the way the solstices do.  Summer and winter seem to demand our attention with their extremes of light and darkness, but the equinoxes slip in quietly and subtly.  This year, the autumnal equinox occurs on September 22 at 11:19 AM PDT, marking the exact moment when the sun crosses the equator and fall officially begins in the Northern Hemisphere.  At this moment, day and night are nearly equal in length, a moment of perfect balance.  From that point on, the days grow noticeably shorter here in West County and beyond.  To me, the fall shift is more of a feeling in the air.  Those crisp mornings with that unmistakable scent, even while the afternoons still feel like summer.  As a kid, I remember it felt like school started too soon and playtime slipped away a little faster.  

For those who have gardened in harsher climates, the equinox signals the last chance to put the garden to bed before the first hard frost.  Back in Utah, I learned that difficult lesson, waking up to snow-covered greens and soggy tomato vines I hadn’t cleared in time.  What I love most about West County is our mild and temperate climate.  This shift often marks the start of one of our most abundant and extended harvest windows. 

Throughout September, we’re still harvesting buckets of tomatoes, swimming in beans, overrun with cucumbers and peppers, and tossing squash at anyone who makes eye contact.  I enjoy the misty mornings, the warm afternoon sunshine, and the fact that the coast is usually free of fog, making it one of the best times of year to head to the beach.  Despite the shortening daylight, fall can be warmer than June or July, especially this year after our exceptionally mild summer.

So, what does the equinox mean for our gardens?

It’s a perfect time to start fall crops.  Arugula, spinach, radishes, lettuce, carrots, and collard greens can all be seeded now.  Transplants of kale, broccoli, chard, and cabbage will thrive in the cooler, damp soil.

September is also a great month to plant flower bulbs and scatter wildflower seeds for next spring.  Last year, I tucked some gladiolas and other bulbs into hard-to-reach corners of my raised beds and forgot about them—until they showed up in March, tall and bright.  I also planted nasturtiums in every color combo except the common flashy orange, and come spring, they added an unexpected and cheery brightness to the garden.  I love mixing flowers with vegetables; it brings a whimsical touch and adds bursts of color beyond the usual greens.

As the balance of light begins to tip, it’s a good moment to reflect on your season.  What worked?  What didn’t?  What are you going to do differently next year?  Enjoy the buzz of the harvest and pause to note the subtle yet unmistakable shift as we head into fall.

Happy Gardening!

August 2025

The garden is full of delight as warm weather continues and the plants become heavy with produce. It can be challenging to keep up with harvesting, especially if you have a large garden. It's a perfect time to start thinking of ways to preserve the veggies you can't eat immediately. Here are some things I've learned over the years, as well as others I've picked up from the community gardeners.

Instead of harvesting as needed, I now do one big harvest during the week and store the extra in containers or Ziploc bags in the fridge. It's a game-changer for greens, carrots, beets, and even herbs if you loosely wrap them in a damp paper towel first. This method also helps tackle the "what's for dinner" question that often arises nearly every evening.  Now you can stare into your fridge and have options instead of scrambling through the garden with a growling stomach.  

If you have a bit more time, blanching vegetables like green beans, snap peas, or broccoli before storing them helps hold their texture and color even longer. A quick dip in boiling water followed by an ice bath does the trick.

For tomatoes, I've started roasting and freezing them in batches. A quick toss with olive oil, salt, and garlic, and they're ready for the oven. After cooling, they go into freezer-safe containers. Come winter, it's easy to pull them out and blend them into a richly flavored soup or sauce.

Another tip: try dehydrating! Investing in a mid-sized dehydrator is around $50 and will help you manage produce for years. Zucchini chips, dried cherry tomatoes, apple slices, snap peas, and even kale chips are surprisingly simple to make. They store well and make great snacks or additions to soup come winter.

Fermentation is another easy and rewarding method. Even if you've never tried it, starting with something basic like fermented cucumbers or radishes takes just salt, water, and patience. The probiotics are a bonus, and you're using garden extras that might end up in the compost bin. I often keep a jar of pickled onions in my fridge to add to salads or sandwiches.

Also, don't overlook your freezer for herbs. Chop up basil, parsley, rosemary, or mint and pack into ice cube trays with either olive oil or water.  It’s perfect for tossing into dishes later in the year, or even into mixed drinks and iced tea. 

Finally, there's always the good old-fashioned trade or giveaway. Leave a box at the end of your driveway with a "free veggies" sign, or post on a neighborhood app or Facebook group. And yes, I know zucchini has a reputation, so maybe don't lead with that. Or better yet, turn them into bread and then share.

In the end, it's a lucky problem to have more than you need. I hope your garden is thriving and you're enjoying all the "fruits" (and veggies) of your labor. If you'd like to share a photo of your garden, send it my way. I'd love to feature more local gardens and gardeners in upcoming articles. This publication is about building community, and it's always inspiring to see what you're growing here in beautiful West County.

Happy Gardening!

July 2025

July’s warmth and steady sunshine boosts garden production and makes harvesting a joy. While sitting back and coasting through the rest of the month is tempting, you may consider a second sowing of your favorite veggies. “Succession planting,” or planting in stages, is the secret to stretching your harvests, filling empty spaces, and making the most of your growing season. 

By now, early spring crops such as lettuce, peas, radishes, and spinach have likely bolted or been fully harvested, leaving open soil just waiting for something new. With our warm climate, we still have at least three more months of growing time. Why not take advantage of it and keep the produce coming?

Bush beans, carrots, beets, summer squash, and cucumbers can all be planted now and still have time to mature. If pests ravaged a crop or something isn’t performing well, with the steady warmth and long days, you can easily drop in a second round of seeds or starts for a late August or early September harvest, depending on the variety. I often plant a round of winter squash or baby pumpkins to be harvested mid-fall.

And don’t forget your greens. While heat can cause lettuce bolt, choosing heat-tolerant varieties and sowing under taller plants like tomatoes or sunflowers can provide fresh salads into early fall. Swiss chard, collards, kale, broccoli, and cauliflower are hardy and resilient.  Planting them now not only preps your fall garden but also lays the groundwork for your winter garden.  

Planting Pointers

1. Replenish Nutrients

When you pull out spent crops, take a moment to boost the soil. Mix compost or a balanced fertilizer to restore nutrients and encourage healthy growth. It’s also a good time to check soil moisture and adjust your watering times if necessary.

2. Water Consistently

July sun can be intense, especially in the afternoon. To help young seedlings thrive, water consistently and consider mulching to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.

3. Stagger Your Sowing

Want to avoid an overflow of green beans or carrots? Try sowing a small patch every 1–2 weeks through mid-August for a steady, more manageable harvest. This approach spreads out the work of harvesting and preserving and helps keep your meals exciting.  

4. Plan for the Future

If you’re aiming for a fall or winter garden, start hardy greens and brassicas like broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage in the shade of taller plants.  They will appreciate the protection, and you’ll be glad come October when homegrown produce is still hitting your table.

There’s something deeply satisfying about squeezing every bit of goodness out of your garden space. Succession planting keeps your garden dynamic, your meals fresh, and your hands in the soil well past summer’s peak. July might be hot and busy, but it’s also an opportunity to keep those harvest baskets overflowing well into late fall and even early winter.

Happy Gardening!

June 2025

With each lengthening day of June leading to the summer solstice, the garden shifts from spring’s freshness to summer’s fullness. Plants are ramping up their production, making it the perfect time to layer in compost for long-term soil health and add a dose of fertilizer to fuel vigorous summer growth. Gardeners often ask me what type of fertilizer is best, so I’m giving a rundown of what to look for when purchasing.

The numbers such as 10-10-10 on a bag of fertilizer refer to the N-P-K ratio. It stands for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium—the three primary nutrients a plant needs to grow. The actual numbers represent the percentage of each element by weight, helping you choose the right blend for your garden’s needs.

To remember what each nutrient does, think of the N-P-K ratio as:

    •    N = Nitrogen → Green Growth

    •    P = Phosphorus → Roots and Blooms

    •    K = Potassium → Health and Hardiness

These three key nutrients work together to support your plant from top to bottom—lush leaves, strong roots, and overall resilience. That being said, the most common deficiency in gardens is nitrogen. It’s quickly used up by plants because it’s essential for leafy growth, but it can also leach out of the soil during periods of heavy rain. When I’m choosing a fertilizer, nitrogen is the number I pay the most attention to, especially during the high-growth months of summer.

Feather meal is my go-to option for a high-nitrogen organic fertilizer that supports leafy growth without overwhelming the plant. Another way to build nitrogen naturally is by growing legumes like beans, peas, clover, or vetch. These plants work with soil bacteria to “fix” nitrogen from the air and store it in their root systems. Once the plant dies back or is turned into the soil, it enriches the earth for future crops.

I’m also asked why organic fertilizer is better when chemical fertilizers often provide faster results. Sure, chemical fertilizers give rapid progress—but think of them like an energy drink: a quick boost that’s short-lived. Organic fertilizers are more like a nourishing smoothie: slower to kick in, but with lasting benefits. They not only feed your plants but also support the soil’s living ecosystem—beneficial microbes, fungi, and worms that all contribute to long-term garden health.

As a gardener, I consider myself a steward of the earth. I’m not just growing food or flowers—I’m protecting pollinators, building healthy soil, and ultimately working to leave the land better than I found it.

For those who would enjoy taking a deeper dive into soil health, I highly recommend the book Soil Science for Gardeners by Robert Pavlis. It offers a fascinating look beneath the surface and will likely change how you see and tend your garden.

Happy Gardening!

Citrus Take 2!

Last month, we discussed why citrus thrives in our climate, and I asked readers to answer where some of the best citrus in the world is grown. Surprisingly, it’s the region surrounding Mt. Vesuvius in Italy. In 2018, I happened upon a market outside the ruins of Pompeii and discovered football-sized lemons. I assumed it was a foreign fruit I’d never heard of until I asked the seller. He told me that ash deposits from Mt. Vesuvius create perfect conditions for growing citrus prized for flavor, oil content, and zest.  The intensity of the volcanic explosion back in 79 AD left a layer of minerals that today varies anywhere from 6 to 65 feet deep. The volcanic deposits provide a steady supply of nutrients and improve soil structure.  My takeaway is remembering how vital nutrients are for plants and that we often don’t fertilize enough throughout the growing season. 

I have a couple of varieties of dwarf limes and lemons that I grow exclusively in pots. My family doesn’t use large quantities of citrus, so a few potted trees produce just enough without waste.   Over the years, I’ve made a point to ensure I fertilize more regularly with organic citrus fertilizer.  I put about ⅓ cup every two weeks in my citrus pots instead of doing a higher amount less often. With regular nutrients, I noticed thriving, healthy plants with tasty fruit instead of smaller, weak plants prone to insects and disease. 

Of course, plants can be healthy and still get pests. Some common pests that attack citrus include scale, aphids, white flies, and leaf miners. Scale bugs are particularly gross.  Bumps appear along the branches, and it is hard to tell if they are even bugs at first glance.  Because of their tough shell-like coating, they are difficult to remove, and left unchecked; the sap-sucking bugs will ultimately kill the tree.  I first encountered scale bugs when I attempted to grow citrus indoors in Utah. I tried scraping them off some branches, but my husband’s method of burning them with his lighter proved much more satisfying and effective.  In the end, I decided to prune off the affected branches and spray the others with Neem oil.  For organic pest control, Neem Oil or Insecticidal Soap is the way to go.  Neem repels insects and suffocates soft-bodied pests.  Insecticidal soap breaks down the protective outer layer of insects and kills them through dehydration and death.  Either method is highly effective and safe for use on anything edible.  

Now that you’re on your way to growing organic, beautiful citrus, I’ll leave you with a recipe that only requires sugar and juiced citrus halves. Place all of your juiced rinds in a bowl, cover with a layer of sugar, and let it sit covered for a day. The result is a syrup that forms as oils and moisture are extracted from the citrus. Strain the syrup from the bowl and enjoy over ice cream, pancakes, or even in a mixed drink.  

Happy Gardening!