September 2025

The autumnal equinox doesn’t seem to garner the spotlight the way the solstices do.  Summer and winter seem to demand our attention with their extremes of light and darkness, but the equinoxes slip in quietly and subtly.  This year, the autumnal equinox occurs on September 22 at 11:19 AM PDT, marking the exact moment when the sun crosses the equator and fall officially begins in the Northern Hemisphere.  At this moment, day and night are nearly equal in length, a moment of perfect balance.  From that point on, the days grow noticeably shorter here in West County and beyond.  To me, the fall shift is more of a feeling in the air.  Those crisp mornings with that unmistakable scent, even while the afternoons still feel like summer.  As a kid, I remember it felt like school started too soon and playtime slipped away a little faster.  

For those who have gardened in harsher climates, the equinox signals the last chance to put the garden to bed before the first hard frost.  Back in Utah, I learned that difficult lesson, waking up to snow-covered greens and soggy tomato vines I hadn’t cleared in time.  What I love most about West County is our mild and temperate climate.  This shift often marks the start of one of our most abundant and extended harvest windows. 

Throughout September, we’re still harvesting buckets of tomatoes, swimming in beans, overrun with cucumbers and peppers, and tossing squash at anyone who makes eye contact.  I enjoy the misty mornings, the warm afternoon sunshine, and the fact that the coast is usually free of fog, making it one of the best times of year to head to the beach.  Despite the shortening daylight, fall can be warmer than June or July, especially this year after our exceptionally mild summer.

So, what does the equinox mean for our gardens?

It’s a perfect time to start fall crops.  Arugula, spinach, radishes, lettuce, carrots, and collard greens can all be seeded now.  Transplants of kale, broccoli, chard, and cabbage will thrive in the cooler, damp soil.

September is also a great month to plant flower bulbs and scatter wildflower seeds for next spring.  Last year, I tucked some gladiolas and other bulbs into hard-to-reach corners of my raised beds and forgot about them—until they showed up in March, tall and bright.  I also planted nasturtiums in every color combo except the common flashy orange, and come spring, they added an unexpected and cheery brightness to the garden.  I love mixing flowers with vegetables; it brings a whimsical touch and adds bursts of color beyond the usual greens.

As the balance of light begins to tip, it’s a good moment to reflect on your season.  What worked?  What didn’t?  What are you going to do differently next year?  Enjoy the buzz of the harvest and pause to note the subtle yet unmistakable shift as we head into fall.

Happy Gardening!

August 2025

The garden is full of delight as warm weather continues and the plants become heavy with produce. It can be challenging to keep up with harvesting, especially if you have a large garden. It's a perfect time to start thinking of ways to preserve the veggies you can't eat immediately. Here are some things I've learned over the years, as well as others I've picked up from the community gardeners.

Instead of harvesting as needed, I now do one big harvest during the week and store the extra in containers or Ziploc bags in the fridge. It's a game-changer for greens, carrots, beets, and even herbs if you loosely wrap them in a damp paper towel first. This method also helps tackle the "what's for dinner" question that often arises nearly every evening.  Now you can stare into your fridge and have options instead of scrambling through the garden with a growling stomach.  

If you have a bit more time, blanching vegetables like green beans, snap peas, or broccoli before storing them helps hold their texture and color even longer. A quick dip in boiling water followed by an ice bath does the trick.

For tomatoes, I've started roasting and freezing them in batches. A quick toss with olive oil, salt, and garlic, and they're ready for the oven. After cooling, they go into freezer-safe containers. Come winter, it's easy to pull them out and blend them into a richly flavored soup or sauce.

Another tip: try dehydrating! Investing in a mid-sized dehydrator is around $50 and will help you manage produce for years. Zucchini chips, dried cherry tomatoes, apple slices, snap peas, and even kale chips are surprisingly simple to make. They store well and make great snacks or additions to soup come winter.

Fermentation is another easy and rewarding method. Even if you've never tried it, starting with something basic like fermented cucumbers or radishes takes just salt, water, and patience. The probiotics are a bonus, and you're using garden extras that might end up in the compost bin. I often keep a jar of pickled onions in my fridge to add to salads or sandwiches.

Also, don't overlook your freezer for herbs. Chop up basil, parsley, rosemary, or mint and pack into ice cube trays with either olive oil or water.  It’s perfect for tossing into dishes later in the year, or even into mixed drinks and iced tea. 

Finally, there's always the good old-fashioned trade or giveaway. Leave a box at the end of your driveway with a "free veggies" sign, or post on a neighborhood app or Facebook group. And yes, I know zucchini has a reputation, so maybe don't lead with that. Or better yet, turn them into bread and then share.

In the end, it's a lucky problem to have more than you need. I hope your garden is thriving and you're enjoying all the "fruits" (and veggies) of your labor. If you'd like to share a photo of your garden, send it my way. I'd love to feature more local gardens and gardeners in upcoming articles. This publication is about building community, and it's always inspiring to see what you're growing here in beautiful West County.

Happy Gardening!

July 2025

July’s warmth and steady sunshine boosts garden production and makes harvesting a joy. While sitting back and coasting through the rest of the month is tempting, you may consider a second sowing of your favorite veggies. “Succession planting,” or planting in stages, is the secret to stretching your harvests, filling empty spaces, and making the most of your growing season. 

By now, early spring crops such as lettuce, peas, radishes, and spinach have likely bolted or been fully harvested, leaving open soil just waiting for something new. With our warm climate, we still have at least three more months of growing time. Why not take advantage of it and keep the produce coming?

Bush beans, carrots, beets, summer squash, and cucumbers can all be planted now and still have time to mature. If pests ravaged a crop or something isn’t performing well, with the steady warmth and long days, you can easily drop in a second round of seeds or starts for a late August or early September harvest, depending on the variety. I often plant a round of winter squash or baby pumpkins to be harvested mid-fall.

And don’t forget your greens. While heat can cause lettuce bolt, choosing heat-tolerant varieties and sowing under taller plants like tomatoes or sunflowers can provide fresh salads into early fall. Swiss chard, collards, kale, broccoli, and cauliflower are hardy and resilient.  Planting them now not only preps your fall garden but also lays the groundwork for your winter garden.  

Planting Pointers

1. Replenish Nutrients

When you pull out spent crops, take a moment to boost the soil. Mix compost or a balanced fertilizer to restore nutrients and encourage healthy growth. It’s also a good time to check soil moisture and adjust your watering times if necessary.

2. Water Consistently

July sun can be intense, especially in the afternoon. To help young seedlings thrive, water consistently and consider mulching to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.

3. Stagger Your Sowing

Want to avoid an overflow of green beans or carrots? Try sowing a small patch every 1–2 weeks through mid-August for a steady, more manageable harvest. This approach spreads out the work of harvesting and preserving and helps keep your meals exciting.  

4. Plan for the Future

If you’re aiming for a fall or winter garden, start hardy greens and brassicas like broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage in the shade of taller plants.  They will appreciate the protection, and you’ll be glad come October when homegrown produce is still hitting your table.

There’s something deeply satisfying about squeezing every bit of goodness out of your garden space. Succession planting keeps your garden dynamic, your meals fresh, and your hands in the soil well past summer’s peak. July might be hot and busy, but it’s also an opportunity to keep those harvest baskets overflowing well into late fall and even early winter.

Happy Gardening!

June 2025

With each lengthening day of June leading to the summer solstice, the garden shifts from spring’s freshness to summer’s fullness. Plants are ramping up their production, making it the perfect time to layer in compost for long-term soil health and add a dose of fertilizer to fuel vigorous summer growth. Gardeners often ask me what type of fertilizer is best, so I’m giving a rundown of what to look for when purchasing.

The numbers such as 10-10-10 on a bag of fertilizer refer to the N-P-K ratio. It stands for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium—the three primary nutrients a plant needs to grow. The actual numbers represent the percentage of each element by weight, helping you choose the right blend for your garden’s needs.

To remember what each nutrient does, think of the N-P-K ratio as:

    •    N = Nitrogen → Green Growth

    •    P = Phosphorus → Roots and Blooms

    •    K = Potassium → Health and Hardiness

These three key nutrients work together to support your plant from top to bottom—lush leaves, strong roots, and overall resilience. That being said, the most common deficiency in gardens is nitrogen. It’s quickly used up by plants because it’s essential for leafy growth, but it can also leach out of the soil during periods of heavy rain. When I’m choosing a fertilizer, nitrogen is the number I pay the most attention to, especially during the high-growth months of summer.

Feather meal is my go-to option for a high-nitrogen organic fertilizer that supports leafy growth without overwhelming the plant. Another way to build nitrogen naturally is by growing legumes like beans, peas, clover, or vetch. These plants work with soil bacteria to “fix” nitrogen from the air and store it in their root systems. Once the plant dies back or is turned into the soil, it enriches the earth for future crops.

I’m also asked why organic fertilizer is better when chemical fertilizers often provide faster results. Sure, chemical fertilizers give rapid progress—but think of them like an energy drink: a quick boost that’s short-lived. Organic fertilizers are more like a nourishing smoothie: slower to kick in, but with lasting benefits. They not only feed your plants but also support the soil’s living ecosystem—beneficial microbes, fungi, and worms that all contribute to long-term garden health.

As a gardener, I consider myself a steward of the earth. I’m not just growing food or flowers—I’m protecting pollinators, building healthy soil, and ultimately working to leave the land better than I found it.

For those who would enjoy taking a deeper dive into soil health, I highly recommend the book Soil Science for Gardeners by Robert Pavlis. It offers a fascinating look beneath the surface and will likely change how you see and tend your garden.

Happy Gardening!

Citrus Take 2!

Last month, we discussed why citrus thrives in our climate, and I asked readers to answer where some of the best citrus in the world is grown. Surprisingly, it’s the region surrounding Mt. Vesuvius in Italy. In 2018, I happened upon a market outside the ruins of Pompeii and discovered football-sized lemons. I assumed it was a foreign fruit I’d never heard of until I asked the seller. He told me that ash deposits from Mt. Vesuvius create perfect conditions for growing citrus prized for flavor, oil content, and zest.  The intensity of the volcanic explosion back in 79 AD left a layer of minerals that today varies anywhere from 6 to 65 feet deep. The volcanic deposits provide a steady supply of nutrients and improve soil structure.  My takeaway is remembering how vital nutrients are for plants and that we often don’t fertilize enough throughout the growing season. 

I have a couple of varieties of dwarf limes and lemons that I grow exclusively in pots. My family doesn’t use large quantities of citrus, so a few potted trees produce just enough without waste.   Over the years, I’ve made a point to ensure I fertilize more regularly with organic citrus fertilizer.  I put about ⅓ cup every two weeks in my citrus pots instead of doing a higher amount less often. With regular nutrients, I noticed thriving, healthy plants with tasty fruit instead of smaller, weak plants prone to insects and disease. 

Of course, plants can be healthy and still get pests. Some common pests that attack citrus include scale, aphids, white flies, and leaf miners. Scale bugs are particularly gross.  Bumps appear along the branches, and it is hard to tell if they are even bugs at first glance.  Because of their tough shell-like coating, they are difficult to remove, and left unchecked; the sap-sucking bugs will ultimately kill the tree.  I first encountered scale bugs when I attempted to grow citrus indoors in Utah. I tried scraping them off some branches, but my husband’s method of burning them with his lighter proved much more satisfying and effective.  In the end, I decided to prune off the affected branches and spray the others with Neem oil.  For organic pest control, Neem Oil or Insecticidal Soap is the way to go.  Neem repels insects and suffocates soft-bodied pests.  Insecticidal soap breaks down the protective outer layer of insects and kills them through dehydration and death.  Either method is highly effective and safe for use on anything edible.  

Now that you’re on your way to growing organic, beautiful citrus, I’ll leave you with a recipe that only requires sugar and juiced citrus halves. Place all of your juiced rinds in a bowl, cover with a layer of sugar, and let it sit covered for a day. The result is a syrup that forms as oils and moisture are extracted from the citrus. Strain the syrup from the bowl and enjoy over ice cream, pancakes, or even in a mixed drink.  

Happy Gardening!

Russian River Citrus

Spring arrives with richly fragrant blooms, my favorite being the citrus. Citrus trees uniquely bloom all year, but the rainy season inhibits the scent from traveling very far, if at all. I love bringing my dwarf citrus tree into my greenhouse to enjoy its scent during the winter. While I know a lot about growing and caring for citrus, I didn’t know why our climate was conducive to these varieties. Despite our foggy mornings and cold spells, I see citrus trees heavy with fruit all along River Road. Wouldn’t the trees prefer a hotter, more tropical climate?  

Oddly, the answer is no. Watching the Florida orange juice commercials as a kid made me believe all the best citrus was grown there, when citrus actually thrives in a Mediterranean-style climate. The fruit naturally contains both sugars and acids. The warm days of summer allow steady sugar buildup, and cool nights slow the sugar consumption and balance the acidity. This contrast produces ideal conditions for fruit to ripen slowly and develop more complex flavors.  

In hot climates, the fruit ripens too quickly, leaving no time to adequately sweeten. The lack of cool nights leads to low-acid and one-dimensional flavor. Conversely, our gloriously cool nights slow down sugar production and help retain acidity, providing that ideal sweet-tart balance. It’s the same reason why our region is famous for wine. There’s an actual science behind balancing sugars and acids, but I was surprised to find it applied to citrus.

Even better, winter coincides with our rainy season, so the fruit receives steady moisture for healthy growth. Most varieties are also cold tolerant, so they can withstand the light frost our area experiences a few times throughout the season.  

Another interesting observation is that the skin of my citrus has always been thick and less juicy inside. When I buy citrus, it’s often the opposite: juicy and thin-skinned. I thought I was doing something wrong, but I found out that there’s a reason why they can pop a straw into a Florida orange and drink the juice. The Florida climate provides consistent rainfall and humidity, which keeps the citrus trees evenly hydrated. Our dry summer climate provides less consistency with moisture and leads to drier and thick-skinned fruits. Basically, our climate produces citrus perfect for snacking that will transport well, and Florida produces fruit for juicing.  

Now that you know how citrus develops flavor, we will investigate caring for our trees in next month’s article. I find their pests can be challenging to manage (scale!), and their nutrient needs are heavy, so it’s worth taking the time to discuss. 

In the meantime, does anyone know where some of the best citrus in the world is grown? If you have a guess, without consulting your friend Google, email me. The first two people to answer correctly will receive a selection of seeds saved from my garden. I’ll announce the answer and the winners in the May issue, where I’ll continue our conversation on citrus. Happy gardening!

Companion Planting

For me, March heralds the official start of Spring and the insatiable desire to plant anything and everything. Now is not the time to be fooled by warm spells because we could still experience a late frost. Patience is the key, and while I wait to plant warm-weather veggies, it's a good time to start thinking about my summer garden layout. 

To maintain soil balance and dissuade pests from returning to the same location, it's a good idea to rotate your crops. Following companion planting suggestions is one way to help you get some ideas for mixing it up. 

So, what is companion planting? It's where different plants are grown together to support each other's needs. I like to say it's the plant world's definition of "friends with benefits".

Years ago, I found the book Carrots Love Tomatoes by Louise Riotte, and I dove headlong into her insight and planting suggestions. By consciously grouping plants, my garden transformed into a healthy ecosystem. I didn't have the same pest troubles, and my plants thrived. One of my many discoveries involved the use of Borage. Growing up, I remember it from my mom's herb garden with its bright, shooting star-like flowers. It has been in nearly every garden I've grown, but not amongst my veggies. It took me years to realize the benefits of growing flowers, herbs, and veggies together. Now, I have dozens of borage plants all over my garden. It attracts both pollinators and insects that will prey on common garden pests. Combined with its ability to readily self-sow, you can see why it's a must-have in any garden. Paired with strawberries, it improves the soil's minerals, boosting the berries' flavor.  

Another great companion to nearly everything is onions. They don't require much room, and their smell is a natural pest and bird deterrent. I grow them in between almost all my plants.  Kale and broccoli, with their shallow roots, work well amongst potatoes; calendula's sticky stems help keep aphids off brassicas; nasturtiums attract hummingbirds and act as a ground cover, and the list goes on. Once you "dig in" to the world of companion planting, you'll find many helpful combinations to help you maintain a more balanced garden. While learning helpful combos, I printed and laminated a companion planting chart and placed it in my garden with my tools. When planting, I'd reference it, and soon I learned what worked and didn't work well together.  I discovered many combos that have proven themselves over the years.  A bed with strawberries, spinach, onions, and borage grows year-round in my garden.  I also grow various basil plants amongst my shishito and padrone peppers because they provide a buffer against cool evening temperatures.  Start to get creative with how you view your garden and think of ways to arrange your plants to benefit each other.  

Also, remember that there is conflicting advice on companion planting, so go with your instincts and experiment to find what works in your garden.  Let me know if you happen upon a new combo that your garden can't live without.  

Happy Gardening!

Growing Strong Seedlings

If you're like me and spent early January shopping seed catalogs, it's time to decide when and how you will start those seeds. I've been sowing seeds for over 15 years, and through trial and a lot of error, I've come up with some helpful tips for growing strong starts.  

1.        Evaluate your light source. Find a south-facing window with 6-8 hours of sun daily, or invest in a grow light. I have received many seed-starting questions, often accompanied by pictures. I can almost guarantee the picture will contain leggy or yellow-leafed seedlings. "Leggy" is a term used to describe seedlings reaching with all their might to find an adequate light source, while yellow leaves indicate poor photosynthesis. It's critical to determine the light source first and not waste time sowing starts that you'll eventually throw on the compost pile.

2.        Consider the container. If you see yourself sowing seeds more than once, it's worth buying plug trays. You can get a five-pack of trays, complete with plastic domes to hold in moisture, for around $20 on Amazon. Each tray holds 40 seedlings, and as the seedlings grow, you can easily pop them out and place them in larger recycled cups. An alternative to plug trays and for small batches is cardboard egg cartons.  

3.        Start in quality soil. To create a light and airy mix that holds moisture, I mix equal parts coco coir (now sold on Amazon), vermiculite, and perlite. Buying a bag of seed starter mix or only a brick of coco coir will be more cost-effective if you're seeding only a flat or two. For potting up, my go-to is Black Gold organic potting soil. It's less expensive than other brands but has nutrients and a lighter texture.  

4.        Timing is everything. You don't want to be babying seedlings for months because you planted them too early, and the weather isn't cooperating to plant them outdoors. Each seed packet will have information on start times, and you can visit www.igrowsonoma.org to see growing charts for our climate.

5.        Always acclimatize. About 7-10 days before transplanting your starts, begin to acclimate them to the outdoors. Start by placing them in a shady, protected area for 1-2 hours. Slowly increase their time outdoors and sun exposure, allowing plants to handle 6-8 hours in direct sunlight.  

6.        Transplant time. Remember that cooler temperatures slow growth rates, so don't rush to plant. Monitor the weather and pick a week with an agreeable forecast. When your seedlings are ready to be planted in the ground, I recommend putting a tablespoon of balanced organic fertilizer at the bottom of each hole to ensure a strong start.  

 It's so rewarding to plant a seed, wait for it to sprout, and watch it grow into a thriving plant. Seed starting is a passion of mine, so much so that I invested in a greenhouse. I love the freedom to grow any variety I want of not just veggies but also flowers.   I could easily write pages on each step outlined above, so if you're looking for more detailed advice or have questions, I'm easily reached via email. 

Happy Gardening!

Winter Kale Soup Recipe

The arrival of a new year usually brings the shock that we’re down another year.  2025? Wasn’t it just Y2K?  But it also brings the anticipation of spring gardening.   The rains provide the time inside to peruse my much-anticipated seed catalogs and daydream about what I will grow in the upcoming season.  It also reminds me that I have plenty of winter greens to use, and I need fresh preparation ideas, specifically for all of my Kale.  I often have an overflow of kale because it readily self-sows and thrives in cool weather.  The leaves are crispier and sweeter and lack the aphids frequently present in summer months.    I mentioned last month that I look forward to my family’s favorite Kale Soup, so I figured I must share my recipe. This soup is a Filipino twist on a Portuguese staple called Caldo Verde. Typically a Linquica Kale Soup, you can adapt this recipe with your preferred protein, such as chicken, Italian sausage, or tofu if you are vegetarian.  Make it yours, and enjoy using fresh ingredients from your winter garden.  Happy Cooking!

                               Filipino Style Kale Soup

CATEGORY:  SOUP

PREP. TIME:  20 Minutes

COOK TIME:  45 Min

SERVINGS: 10 

INGREDIENTS:

⅓ Cup Coconut Oil

Large Yellow Onion (diced)

3 Tbs. Garlic

1.5 Lbs Protein Linquica or Chorizo 

2 lbs Kale (chopped with stems removed)

5 Cups Coconut Milk

5 Cups Chicken Stock

2 Tbls Soy Sauce

Pepper to taste 

Optional: Add 2lbs of peeled potatoes cut into ½ in slices.

INSTRUCTIONS:

In a large saucepan over medium heat, saute onion in oil until translucent (5 min).  Add garlic and saute until fragrant.  Next, add your protein and saute for around 3-5 minutes.  Stir in chopped kale and cook until wilted.  Add the coconut milk, chicken stock, soy sauce, and pepper to taste.  Bring to a boil and simmer.  If adding potatoes, simmer until they start falling apart (30 min).  Mash some potatoes for a thicker texture.  

The longer the soup sits, the better it tastes.  It can also be paired with crusty bread for dipping.  It makes excellent leftovers and does well frozen.

Thanksgiving 2024

November often brings unpredictable weather and thus heralds the start of winter gardening.  I followed my advice this year and started cleaning garden beds during our gloriously sunny September afternoons.  I worked hard to pull out plants after collecting the seeds.  I sprinkled some for a winter crop and stashed some for spring, so I feel ahead.  I have the time to gather all my pumpkins and prepare them for carving and decorating without feeling rushed.

I specifically planted my pumpkins in mid-June to time my harvest closer to Thanksgiving.  While many carve Jack-o-Lanterns for Halloween décor, over the years, I've found that our October gets a bit hectic.  We seem to have more time for pumpkin crafts in November.  Having a week-long Thanksgiving break is pretty standard, so I like saving fun projects to keep my family engaged.  Now that my kids are teens, they have more dexterity and can carve more elaborate designs.  This year, I planted Atlantic Giant pumpkins so we could try the more intricate designs in the carving packets.  While we carve, it's been a tradition to save and roast the seed.  We each create a savory or sweet spice combo for the seeds and then judge which tastes the best.  Those seeds will stay on the table in bowls to snack on throughout the week.  After carving, we will place the pumpkins and other fall items on the porch for a festive display.  

I found this last project in a magazine back in 2015.  It has become a favorite because it always turns out famously whether you keep it simple or get involved.  Any size of pumpkin will work; pictured is a mid-sized Jarrah Dale and white Spooky.    

For this craft, you will need tacky glue spray or hot glue, succulents, moss, acorns, tiny bits of bark, pinecones, and whatever you think looks festive.  I even tucked in a squirrel from one of my fairy gardens. Get creative! A bonus activity is hiking after a rainy day and collecting items from the woods.  We have a fantastic selection of moss and lichen right at our doorsteps, but if you can't find any, Friedman's Home Improvement sells large bags of moss at a cheaper price than the craft store.  

For the assembly, choose the pumpkin you'd like to decorate.  Spray with tacky glue and stick the moss around the stem and top edge.  Press in various succulents, and arrange items like you would a flower bouquet.  If necessary, use a glue gun to attach anything still moving around.  Now, you have a gorgeous centerpiece for any table, and if you use mini pumpkins, they make cute placeholders for your holiday table. 

To keep them looking fresh, mist the top with a spray bottle every few days.  The pictured pumpkin lasted well into spring because I kept it hydrated.  If you end up doing this project or have other pumpkin crafts you like making, send me a photo.  I enjoy seeing other people's creativity and am always looking for new projects or ideas. 

All my best to you and your families this wonderful month of November.  

Happy Thanksgiving!